Silver Snowflake Wall Hanging Free Crochet Pattern

Silver Snowflake Wall Hanging: A Free Beginner-Friendly Crochet Pattern

Introduction

If you have ever looked at a delicate crocheted snowflake and thought, "I could never make that," this pattern is for you. The Silver Snowflake Wall Hanging is a flat, six-pointed motif worked in joined rounds from the center outward, so you only ever need to know a handful of basic stitches to create something that looks truly intricate. It is perfect for anyone who has just learned to crochet and wants a project that builds confidence while producing a finished piece they will actually want to display. Worked in ice blue and silver worsted weight cotton, the finished snowflake measures about 12 inches point to point, with crisp, dimensional points tipped in silver picots and a soft matte texture that catches the light. Once stiffened, it holds its shape beautifully and looks like a frosty window ornament you made with your own two hands.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) cotton or cotton-blend yarn, approximately 60 yards total: 40 yards ice blue and 20 yards silver. Cotton is recommended because it stiffens well and holds crisp points.
• Crochet hook: G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch marker: One removable stitch marker (or a scrap of contrasting yarn) to mark the beginning of each round.
• Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for weaving in ends.
• Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
• Fabric stiffener or equal parts white craft glue and water (about 2 tablespoons of each).
• Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat (or a thick towel over a foam board).
• Finished size: Approximately 12 inches point to point, with each of the six points stretching about 6 inches from the center.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed below with a plain-English explanation. Read through them once before you begin, and refer back any time a symbol confuses you.

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn over your hook and pull it through the loop already on your hook. Each one creates a small "V" of yarn.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. It joins without adding height.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. (1 loop remains.)
• hdc – half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once. (Listed for reference; not used in this pattern.)
• dc – double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.
• tr – treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops three times.
• picot – a tiny decorative bump. Work ch 3, then sl st into the third chain from your hook (the very first chain you made). This creates a small loop that becomes a point.
• sp – space. The gap formed by a chain (for example, a "ch-3 sp" is the hole made by three chains).
• st / sts – stitch / stitches.
• beg – beginning.
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull tight to close the center hole completely. If you have never made one: loop the yarn into a circle, hold the crossing point, insert your hook into the circle, and work your stitches into the ring itself.
• join with sl st – finish a round by making a slip stitch into the first stitch of that round so the round closes into a circle.
• fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail all the way through the last loop to secure it.

Gauge

Gauge: The first 3 rounds measure 2.5 inches across after blocking. The finished snowflake measures approximately 12 inches point to point.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is simply how big your stitches turn out. If your stitches are larger than the pattern expects, your snowflake will be bigger than 12 inches; if smaller, it will shrink. Because this is a decoration rather than a garment, a small difference will not ruin it, but checking gauge ensures your six points stay even and your finished size matches the instructions.

How to make a gauge swatch: Work Rounds 1 through 3 exactly as written below. Lay the piece flat on a table and measure straight across the widest part with a ruler. If it measures about 2.5 inches, you are on track. If it is noticeably larger, try a smaller hook (such as F/5, 3.75 mm); if noticeably smaller, try an H/8 (5 mm).

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each round so you always know where the round began and where to join. This single habit prevents most beginner mistakes.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension should be relaxed enough that your hook slides easily through each stitch. Tight stitches make the snowflake curl and make the picots hard to work.
• Count after every round. The stitch counts in parentheses tell you exactly how many stitches you should have. If the number is off, fix it before moving on—errors grow quickly in rounds.
• Carry the unused color loosely. When you switch between ice blue and silver, let the resting yarn lie gently along the back. If you pull it tight, the snowflake will pucker.
• Keep your center closed. After Round 1, pull the magic ring tail firmly so no hole shows in the middle.
• Blocking is part of the pattern. Do not skip the stiffening step—it is what turns soft crochet into a crisp snowflake.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes: Work in joined rounds; you do not need to turn your work. The beginning ch-3 counts as the first dc unless otherwise noted. Change colors as directed and carry the unused color loosely along the back. The snowflake is worked flat from the center outward in six symmetrical points.

Center (Rounds 1–2, Ice Blue)

Round 1 (ice blue): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the ring. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (12 dc)

Round 2 (ice blue): Ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (24 dc)

Chain-Space Round (Round 3, Silver)

Round 3 (silver): Ch 1, sc in same st. *Ch 3, skip next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 sps)

Expanding Rounds (Rounds 4–5)

Round 4 (ice blue): Sl st into first ch-3 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. *Ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around, ending with ch 2, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (36 dc, 12 ch-2 sps)

Round 5 (silver): Ch 1, sc in same st. *Sc in next 2 dc, sc in ch-2 sp, picot, sc in same ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ending with join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off silver. (48 sc, 12 picots)

Forming the Six Points (Round 6, Ice Blue)

Note: This round creates six large points separated by six smaller connector sections.

Round 6 (ice blue): Ch 1, sc in same st. Sc in next 3 sts. *Skip next 2 sts, [dc, ch 2, dc] in next st, ch 2, [tr, ch 3, picot, ch 3, tr] in next st (point tip), ch 2, [dc, ch 2, dc] in next st, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts; repeat from * around five more times, ending with sl st to first sc. Fasten off ice blue. (6 large points)

Edging (Round 7, Silver)

Round 7 (silver): Join silver with sl st to any sc between points. Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire outer edge, working sc in each st and ch, and working 2 sc in each ch-3 sp at point tips to keep edges flat. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Weave in all ends. (Even sc edging around entire perimeter)

Assembly and Finishing

Weave in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle and pass it back and forth through the back of several nearby stitches, then trim close to the work. Never knot your ends—weaving hides them neatly.

Stiffen the snowflake: Soak the snowflake in fabric stiffener, or in a mixture of equal parts white glue and water, for 2 minutes. Gently squeeze out the excess without wringing or twisting, which would distort your stitches.

Pin it out: Lay the snowflake on your blocking mat. Pin out each of the six points, stretching them so each measures approximately 6 inches from the center, for a total of 12 inches point to point. Pin each picot open so the tiny loops stay visible.

Dry completely: Leave it undisturbed for 24 hours. Do not remove the pins until the piece is fully dry and firm to the touch. Then remove the pins.

Make the hanging loop: Cut a 10-inch length of silver yarn. Fold it in half and attach it to the top point with a lark's head knot (fold the loop, push the folded end through a stitch, then pull the two loose ends through that loop and tighten). Alternatively, crochet a chain of 20 and sl st it to the top point to form a loop. Knot securely and trim the ends.

Hang it: Use a small nail or removable hook through the chain loop to display your snowflake on a wall, door, or window frame.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap ice blue and silver for classic white and pale gray, or try deep navy with gold for a different winter mood. Keep one color light and one metallic for the crispest contrast.
• Adjust the size: Use a larger hook (such as an H/8, 5 mm) with the same yarn for a bigger snowflake, or a smaller hook (F/5, 3.75 mm) for a delicate mini version. Always re-check your gauge after Round 3.
• Try a different yarn: Cotton gives the crispest, stiffest result, but a cotton-acrylic blend works well too. Avoid fluffy or fuzzy yarns, which hide the stitch definition and blur the points.
• Make a set: Work several snowflakes in alternating color combinations and hang them at different heights on a wall or from a window for a snowy winter display.