Free Pattern: The Golden Hour Bloom Crochet Wall Flower
Gauge
Gauge: 12 single crochet stitches and 14 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm), worked in the round.
Why gauge matters: Gauge is simply how big your stitches turn out. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern expects, your flower will come out larger than 12 inches; if they are smaller, it will come out smaller. The petals will still fit either way, but the finished size will change. Checking gauge takes ten minutes and saves you from surprises.
How to make a gauge swatch: With your brown yarn and 5.5 mm hook, make a magic ring, ch 1, and work 6 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st. Then work the same increase rounds as the center disc (Rounds 2 through 6 of the pattern below). Lay the swatch flat and measure across the middle with a ruler. If 12 stitches measure about 4 inches, you are right on track. If your stitches are too big (fewer than 12 stitches in 4 inches), try a smaller hook, such as an H/8 (5.0 mm). If they are too small (more than 12 stitches in 4 inches), try a larger hook, such as a J/10 (6.0 mm).
Beginner Tips Before You Start
- Use a stitch marker to track your rounds. Place the marker in the first stitch of each round as soon as you make it. When you come back around, you will know exactly where the round began and where to join. Move the marker up each round.
- Do not pull your yarn too tight. Beginners often tug every stitch snug, which makes the fabric stiff and hard to work into. Keep your tension relaxed — the yarn should glide, not fight you. Bulky yarn is forgiving, so let it be soft.
- Count out loud. Seriously. Counting your stitches at the end of every round and every petal row is the single best habit you can build. The stitch count in parentheses at the end of each line is your checklist.
- Make one practice petal first. Before you commit to all twelve, crochet a single petal and look at it. This is your chance to get comfortable with sc, hdc, dc, and the decreases without any pressure.
- Keep your petals identical by stacking them. As you finish each petal, lay it on top of the previous one. If one looks noticeably longer or wider, your tension drifted — loosen up or snug up slightly on the next one.
- Do not weave in the petal tails. Each petal is fastened off leaving a 6-inch tail on purpose. Those tails are your sewing thread for attaching petals to the center. Leave them long.
Step-by-Step Instructions
PATTERN NOTES: The sunflower is worked in two parts — a flat, spiraled center disc and a set of petals joined to its edge. All rounds are joined with a slip stitch unless otherwise stated. Ch 1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round.
Part 1: Center Disc (make 1 with chocolate brown yarn)
Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around — that means: 2 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, then repeat those two steps all the way around. Join. (18 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] around — 2 sc in the first stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, repeated all the way around. Join. (24 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] around — 2 sc in the first stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, repeated all the way around. Join. (30 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts] around — 2 sc in the first stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 4 stitches, repeated all the way around. Join. (36 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] around — 2 sc in the first stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches, repeated all the way around. Join. (42 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts] around — 2 sc in the first stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 6 stitches, repeated all the way around. Join. (48 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around (no increases — just one single crochet in every stitch). Join. (48 sc)
Fasten off brown yarn and weave in the ends. This side is the front of the flower. Set the disc aside.
Part 2: Petals (make 12 with golden yellow yarn)
Row 1: Ch 10. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (9 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. (9 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Dc in first 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in last 3 sts. (9 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (9 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (7 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (5 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over last 2 sts. (3 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc3tog. (1 sc) Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for sewing. Do not weave in the tail.
Repeat Rows 1–8 eleven more times so you have 12 petals total, each with a 6-inch sewing tail.
Part 3: Optional Leaf (make 1 with dark green yarn)
Row 1: Ch 12. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, sl st in last ch. (11 sts) Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for sewing.
Assembly and Finishing
Step 1 — Arrange the petals. Lay the brown center disc flat with the right side facing up. Arrange the 12 petals evenly around the edge, like numbers on a clock face, with the wider base of each petal overlapping the edge of the disc by about 0.5 inch. The pointed tips should face outward. Pin each petal in place if you have straight pins.
Step 2 — Sew the petals on. Thread one petal's 6-inch tail onto your tapestry needle. Working from the front, sew through the base stitches of the petal and the edge stitches of the disc, making small, firm stitches back and forth across the overlap. Sew all the way across the base of that petal, then knot off on the back and trim. Repeat for each of the 12 petals, working your way around the circle. Sew through the yarn, not around it — your stitches should pass through the middle of the yarn strands so they hold tight.
Step 3 — Attach the leaf (optional). Turn the flower over. Using the leaf's tail and your tapestry needle, sew the flat end of the leaf to the back of the flower near the edge of the center disc. Knot off and trim.
Step 4 — Weave in all remaining ends. Thread each leftover tail onto the tapestry needle and run it back and forth through the back of several stitches (about 1 inch of travel), then change direction once and run it back the other way. Trim close to the fabric. This double-back method keeps ends from working loose.
Step 5 — Add a hanging loop (optional). If you are hanging the flower on a wall, cut a 10-inch length of brown yarn, fold it in half to make a loop, and sew the two ends firmly to the back of the center disc with your tapestry needle. Knot and trim.
Step 6 — Block lightly. Blocking means gently shaping the finished piece with moisture so it lies flat and even. Lightly mist the flower with clean water from a spray bottle (do not soak it), lay it flat on a towel, and smooth each petal into a nice rounded shape with your fingers. Let it dry completely, about 4 to 6 hours or overnight. Bulky acrylic responds best to a light mist; if your yarn is cotton, you can press it gently with a warm iron over a damp cloth — never touch the iron directly to the stitches.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Change the colors for any season. Swap the golden yellow for cream and the brown for soft grey for a winter-white flower, or use deep rust and mustard for an autumn version. Keep the same yardage amounts and the pattern works exactly the same.
- Make it bigger or smaller. To enlarge the flower, add one more increase round to the center disc (Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts]Also Check Out: We think you'd love this beautiful pattern on our sister site: Celestial Dragon Amigurumi Free Pattern – A Knitted Ode to Starry Skies
