Free Pattern: Midnight Meadow Round Potholders
Round 4: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (54 sts)
Round 10: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (60 sts)
Round 11: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (66 sts)
Round 12: Ch 1. [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 sts] around — repeat the bracketed sequence 6 times total. Join with sl st to first sc. (72 sts)
Round 13: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around, with no increases at all. Join with sl st to first sc. (72 sts)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a 15 cm (6 inch) tail, pull it through the last loop, and tighten. Weave in the ends. Make a second identical circle the same way.
Joining and Border
Now you will crochet the two circles together with Sage Green. This is what makes the potholder thick and double-layered.
Setup: Hold the two finished circles with wrong sides together — the pretty front of each circle faces outward, and the two backs touch in the middle. Line up the stitches so the edges match all the way around.
Joining Round 1: With Sage Green, join the yarn through both layers at any stitch. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around, inserting your hook through the front circle's stitch and the matching back circle's stitch at the same time. Work all 72 stitches this way. Do not join at the end of this round. (72 sts)
Border Round 2: Ch 1, then turn your work so you are now working along the outside edge you just created. Work 1 sc in each st around, and wherever the edge curves (roughly every 12 stitches, at the "corners" of the circle), work 2 sc in the same stitch to keep the edge flat instead of puckered. Join with sl st to first sc. (Approximately 80 sts — the exact number depends on how many extra stitches you added at the curves.)
Fasten off. Cut the yarn, pull the tail through, and tighten.
Hanging Loop
With Sage Green, join the yarn at the top edge of the potholder, right where you would like the loop to sit. Ch 12, then sl st back into the same stitch you joined into, so the chain forms a small loop. Fasten off and weave in the ends securely — give the loop a firm tug to test it.
Assembly and Finishing
Your potholder is already assembled as you crochet, because the joining round sews the two layers together. Here is how to finish it neatly:
- Check the join: Run your finger all the way around the edge. Every stitch of the front circle should be joined to a stitch of the back circle. If you spot a gap, thread a length of matching yarn on your tapestry needle and sew the gap closed with a few small stitches.
- Weave in the ends: Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle. Push the needle through the back of the fabric for about 5 cm (2 inches), then turn and go back the other way for another 5 cm (2 inches). This zig-zag path locks the tail in place so it will never work loose in the wash. Trim the yarn close to the fabric.
- Block: Lightly wet the potholder in cool water and gently squeeze out the excess (do not wring it). Lay it flat on a towel and shape it into a perfect circle with your hands. Pin the edges if they curl. Let it dry completely, which usually takes several hours or overnight. Blocking evens out any slightly uneven stitches and makes the potholder lie beautifully flat.
- Final safety check: Before using it near heat, tug firmly on the hanging loop and on every woven-in end. Nothing should shift.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Change the colors: Swap the Deep Teal and Sage Green for any two worsted weight cotton colors you love — cream and terracotta, mustard and charcoal, or two shades of the same color for a subtle, tonal look. Change colors at the joining round, not mid-circle, so the two layers stay identical.
- Make it bigger or smaller: To make a larger potholder, simply keep going with the increase pattern — each new round adds 6 stitches, so Round 14 would be [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts] around (78 sts), Round 15 would be [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 12 sts]Also Check Out: We think you'd love this beautiful pattern on our sister site: The Whispering Pines Mug Cozy: A Free Crochet Pattern for a Textured, Forest-Inspired Wrap
