Harvest Bloomer Crochet Shorts Free Pattern: Moss Stitch Plum & Mauve

Harvest Bloomer Crochet Shorts: A Beginner-Friendly Moss Stitch Pattern in Plum & Mauve

Introduction

These high-waisted bloomer shorts are the perfect first garment for anyone who has just learned to crochet and wants to make something they will actually wear. Worked in one simple moss-stitch tube from the waist down, they skip complicated shaping entirely and use two small crotch gaps to create the leg openings for you. The finished shorts are soft, slightly puffed at the thigh, and preppy in a deep plum with dusty mauve ruffled cuffs and a matching crocheted drawstring tied in a little bow at the front. Made in a linen-cotton blend, the fabric has a dense, nubby, woven-looking texture that feels cool and breathable against the skin. Whether you wear them over tights in pumpkin season or on their own in summer, they are cozy, charming, and completely beginner-friendly.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK / light worsted weight linen blend (approximately 50% linen, 50% cotton), 125 yds (114 m) per 50 g skein.
  • Color A (Plum): 3 (3, 4) skeins
  • Color B (Mauve): 1 skein
• Crochet hook: Size 4.0 mm (US G-6), or the size needed to match gauge.
• Stitch markers: At least 2, to mark the beginning of each round and the leg openings.
• Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped yarn needle for weaving in ends.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Tape measure for checking gauge and length.

Finished sizes: XS (S, M) to fit hip 34 (38, 42) in / 86 (96, 107) cm.

• Finished hip circumference: 36 (40, 44) in / 91 (102, 112) cm (about 2 in / 5 cm of positive ease).
• Finished rise (waist to crotch): 11 (12, 13) in / 28 (30, 33) cm.
• Finished inseam (before cuff): 2.5 (3, 3.5) in / 6 (8, 9) cm.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull it through the loop. That is one chain stitch.
• sc – single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), wrap the yarn over again, and pull it through both loops. One single crochet made.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. It joins work without adding height.
• st(s) – stitch or stitches.
• sp – space. Usually the small gap created by a chain stitch (a "ch-1 sp").
• moss stitch – also called linen stitch. It is simply (sc in the next ch-1 space, ch 1) repeated over and over. The single crochets sit in the chain spaces of the round below, which gives the fabric its woven look.
• rnd – round. One complete circle of stitches worked around the tube.
• rep – repeat. Do the same instruction again.
• join with sl st – finish a round by making a slip stitch into the first stitch of that round so the circle closes.
• fasten off – cut the yarn leaving a tail, then pull the tail all the way through the last loop on your hook to lock it.
• weave in ends – thread a yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the inside of the fabric so it disappears.
• block – dampen the finished piece and shape it flat to dry so the stitches even out.

Gauge

18 sts and 18 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in moss stitch (sc, ch 1) after blocking. Gauge is critical for fit in this pattern.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into a set measurement. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern expects, the shorts will come out too large; if they are smaller, the shorts will be too tight. Because these shorts are worked as a tube, even a small difference adds up around the whole hip.

How to make a gauge swatch: With Color A and your 4.0 mm hook, ch 30. Work moss stitch (sc in each ch-1 sp, ch 1) back and forth for about 4 in / 10 cm. Fasten off, mist it lightly with water, and let it dry flat. Lay a tape measure across the middle and count how many single crochets fit in 4 in / 10 cm. If you have more than 18, switch to a larger hook; if you have fewer, switch to a smaller hook. Then begin the pattern.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Mark the start of every round. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round so you always know where the round begins and ends.
• Keep your ch-1 spaces loose and even. Those little gaps are where you will place your next round of stitches. If you pull them tight, the next round becomes very hard to work into.
• Count your stitches after every round. The pattern gives you a stitch count in parentheses after each round — check it before moving on.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight. Tension should be relaxed and even. Tight tension makes stiff, small shorts; loose, uneven tension makes gaps.
• Trust the crotch gaps. The skipped stitches are intentional — they create the leg openings without any complicated shaping. Do not work into them.
• Try it on as you go. Because the drawstring is adjustable, you can slip the waistband on over your hips to check the fit before you finish the legs.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Moss Stitch in the Round (how the fabric works)

Every round is the same idea: work one single crochet into each chain-1 space of the round below, with one chain between each single crochet. The chain-1 spaces of the previous round are always where the next round's stitches go. Do not turn your work; keep the right side facing out.

Set-Up

With Color A (plum), make a slip knot. Ch 90 (100, 110) loosely. Join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist it. This ring is the waist edge.

Waist Casing (drawstring casing)

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with sl st to first sc. (90 / 100 / 110 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with sl st. (90 / 100 / 110 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc in next sc, ch 1] around, join with sl st to first sc. (90 / 100 / 110 sc, 90 / 100 / 110 ch-1 sps)

Rnds 4–5: Rep Rnd 3 twice more. Fasten off Color A. (90 / 100 / 110 sc, 90 / 100 / 110 ch-1 sps)

This creates a 5-round band with a channel for the drawstring; the ch-1 spaces form the casing openings.

Body (moss stitch tube)

Join Color A to any ch-1 sp of Rnd 5.

Rnd 6 (set-up): Ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] around, join with sl st to first sc. (90 / 100 / 110 sc, 90 / 100 / 110 ch-1 sps)

Rnds 7–24 (7–26, 7–28): Rep Rnd 6. Work even in moss stitch until the piece measures 9 (10, 11) in / 23 (25, 28) cm from the waist edge, ending after a complete round. Do not fasten off. (90 / 100 / 110 sc, 90 / 100 / 110 ch-1 sps)

Crotch Shaping (simple split for legs)

The tube is divided into two leg openings. Count your stitches: 90 (100, 110). Front and back each use half: 45 (50, 55) sts. The crotch gap is 3 (3, 4) in / 8 (8, 10) cm wide, approximately 14 (14, 18) sts.

Next rnd (split): Ch 1, sc in next 15 (17, 18) ch-1 sps, ch 1, skip next 14 (14, 18) ch-1 sps (crotch gap), sc in next 16 (19, 19) ch-1 sps, ch 1, skip next 14 (14, 18) ch-1 sps (second crotch gap), sc in remaining 15 (17, 18) ch-1 sps, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc. You now have two leg openings separated by two crotch gaps. (46 / 53 / 55 sc total across both legs; each leg approximately 23 / 26 / 27 sc)

Note: The skipped stitches form the inner leg openings. Do not work into them.

Leg 1 (first leg)

Rnd 1: Join Color A with sl st to first sc after first crotch gap. Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] around leg opening, join with sl st to first sc. (23 / 26 / 27 sc, 23 / 26 / 27 ch-1 sps)

Rnds 2–4 (2–5, 2–6): Rep Rnd 1, working moss stitch evenly around. The leg measures approximately 2.5 (3, 3.5) in / 6 (8, 9) cm. Fasten off Color A. (23 / 26 / 27 sc, 23 / 26 / 27 ch-1 sps)

Leg 2 (second leg)

Join Color A to the first sc of the second leg opening. Work as for Leg 1, Rnds 1–4 (1–5, 1–6). Fasten off Color A. (23 / 26 / 27 sc, 23 / 26 / 27 ch-1 sps)

Mauve Ruffled Cuffs (worked on each leg)

Join Color B (mauve) to any ch-1 sp at the lower edge of Leg 1.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] around, join with sl st to first sc. (23 / 26 / 27 sc)

Rnd 2 (increase rnd): Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, ch 1] around, join with sl st. (46 / 52 / 54 sc) This doubles the stitch count to create the ruffle flare.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] around, join with sl st. (46 / 52 / 54 sc)

Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 3. Fasten off Color B, leaving a 6 in / 15 cm tail. Weave in ends. (46 / 52 / 54 sc)

Rep Mauve Ruffled Cuff Rnds 1–4 on Leg 2.

Crocheted Drawstring

With Color B (mauve), ch 60 (65, 70). Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off, leaving 4 in / 10 cm tails. (59 / 64 / 69 sl sts)

Assembly and Finishing

Thread the drawstring: Using the tapestry needle or your fingers, thread the mauve drawstring through the waist casing (Rnds 3–5), starting and ending at the center front. Work it in and out through the ch-1 openings all the way around. Tie the two ends in a small bow at the center front.

Weave in all ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about 1 in / 2.5 cm, then trim close to the fabric. Never knot your ends — weaving hides them neatly and keeps the fabric stretchy.

Block lightly: Mist the shorts with water until damp but not soaking. Lay them flat and shape them to the finished measurements (hip circumference and rise), smoothing the ruffled cuffs so the flare sits evenly. Let them dry completely. Do not press with an iron — the moss stitch texture should stay raised. The fabric will relax slightly after blocking.

Final fit check: Try the shorts on and adjust the drawstring tension as desired. The bow lets you tighten or loosen the waist to your comfort.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap plum and mauve for any two shades you love — try sage and cream for spring, or rust and mustard for autumn. You can also work the cuffs in the same color as the body for a more subtle, tonal look.
• Adjust the size: To make the shorts larger or smaller, add or remove chains in the starting ring in multiples of 10 (for example, ch 120 for a larger hip). Keep the crotch gaps at 14 (14, 18) sts and split the remaining stitches evenly between the two legs.
• Substitute the yarn: Any DK or light worsted weight yarn will work — cotton, bamboo, or a cotton-acrylic blend. Always crochet a new gauge swatch, because different fibers behave differently, and linen blends relax more after washing.
• Make them longer or shorter: Add extra rounds to the Body section before the crotch split for a higher rise, or add rounds to each leg before the cuff for a longer inseam. Just remember each added round uses a little more yarn.