Free Pattern: Retro Daisy Herringbone Knit Kimono Robe

Retro Daisy Herringbone Knit Kimono Robe: A Beginner-Friendly Free Pattern

If you have ever looked at a knitted robe and thought, "I could never make that," this pattern is for you. The Retro Daisy Herringbone Knit Kimono Robe is built from five simple flat rectangles, so there is no shaping, no increasing, no decreasing, and no knitting in the round. If you can knit and purl, you can make this robe. The finished piece is a knee-length, relaxed kimono with a warm burnt-orange body, deep cobalt bands, and three fuzzy felted daisies down the front. The recycled cotton gives it a soft, matte, slightly rustic texture that drapes beautifully and feels like your favorite weekend blanket. It is unisex, forgiving of fit, and genuinely cozy.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Recycled cotton worsted weight (approx. 200–220 yds / 183–201 m per 100 g skein). You need 5 skeins in Orange (MC) and 2 skeins in Cobalt (CC). The sample uses approximately 950 yds MC and 380 yds CC.
• Needles: US 8 (5.0 mm) straight or circular needles, 32 in / 80 cm cable. You will also need a spare needle of the same size for the optional three-needle bind-off.
• Crochet hook: Size G-6 (4.0 mm) for the daisy centers (optional if you prefer to embroider the centers instead).
• Tapestry needle: A large blunt needle with an eye big enough for worsted yarn, for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Stitch markers: At least 8, to mark armholes, shoulders, and daisy placement.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Finished size: Chest circumference 48 in / 122 cm; length from shoulder to hem 36 in / 91.5 cm; sleeve length from shoulder 22 in / 56 cm; sleeve circumference 16 in / 40.5 cm. Designed with 4–6 in / 10–15 cm of positive ease (extra room) for a relaxed fit.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• st / sts – stitch / stitches. One loop on your needle is one stitch.
• K – knit. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from left to right, wrap the yarn around, and pull it through.
• P – purl. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from right to left, wrap the yarn around the front, and pull it through.
• sl 1 – slip one stitch. Move one stitch from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it.
• yo – yarn over. Bring the yarn over the right needle to create an extra loop (a small hole).
• psso – pass slipped stitch over. Lift the slipped stitch and pull it over the stitch(es) next to it, dropping it off the needle.
• k2tog – knit two stitches together. Insert the needle through two stitches at once and knit them as one, which decreases your stitch count by one.
• RS – right side. The side of the fabric that faces outward when worn.
• WS – wrong side. The inside of the fabric.
• MC – main color (Orange).
• CC – contrast color (Cobalt).
• garter stitch – knitting every row. This makes a flat, ridged fabric that does not curl.
• bind off – the way to finish an edge so stitches do not unravel. Knit two stitches, then lift the first over the second and off the needle; repeat across.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through the loop on the hook and the stitch.
• magic ring – a crochet technique to start a circle that you can pull tight so there is no hole in the middle.

Gauge

16 sts and 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in herringbone stitch, blocked.

Gauge matters because it is how we make sure your robe ends up the same size as the pattern. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, the robe will be too large; if smaller, it will be too tight. To check, cast on about 25 stitches and work in herringbone stitch for about 4 inches. Bind off, then wash and dry the swatch the same way you plan to wash the robe. Lay it flat and measure 4 inches across the middle. Count the stitches in that space. If you have more than 16, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down. Always trust the swatch, not the label on the yarn.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers to track your panels. Place a marker every 20 stitches so you can count quickly and catch mistakes early.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension is the number one beginner struggle. Let the yarn flow; loose, even stitches look better than tight, uneven ones.
• Herringbone biases. The fabric will lean slightly to one side as you knit. This is normal. A firm block at the end straightens it out.
• Knit all your panels before seaming. Lay them out flat and compare lengths. If one is a little short, block it to match before you sew.
• Count your stitches at the end of every row. If you have 97 on the Back panel, 49 on each Front, and 65 on each Sleeve, you are on track.
• Keep a notebook. Write down your row count and any changes so both sleeves and both fronts match.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Herringbone Stitch (the pattern stitch)

Worked flat over a multiple of 2 sts + 1.

Row 1 (RS): K1, *sl 1, k1, yo, psso the k1 and yo; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches.

Repeat Rows 1–2 for the pattern. (If you prefer the classic herringbone, use this instead: Row 1: K1, *k2tog but leave both sts on the left needle, then knit the first st again and slip both off; repeat from * to last st, k1. Row 2: Purl.)

Back Panel (make 1 in MC)

Cast on 97 sts.

Rows 1–204: Work in herringbone stitch (Rows 1–2 repeated) until the piece measures 34 in / 86.5 cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (97 sts)

Bind off all sts loosely.

Front Panels (make 2 in MC)

Cast on 49 sts.

Rows 1–204: Work in herringbone stitch until the piece measures 34 in / 86.5 cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (49 sts)

Bind off all sts loosely. Make a second panel identical to the first.

Sleeves (make 2 in MC)

Cast on 65 sts.

Rows 1–120: Work in herringbone stitch until the piece measures 20 in / 51 cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (65 sts)

Bind off all sts loosely. Make a second sleeve identical to the first.

Cobalt Front Bands (make 2 in CC)

Cast on 9 sts.

Rows 1–204: Work in garter stitch (knit every row) until the band measures 34 in / 86.5 cm, ending with a WS row. (9 sts)

Bind off all sts loosely. Make a second band identical to the first.

Cobalt Sleeve Cuffs (make 2 in CC)

Cast on 9 sts.

Rows 1–96: Work in garter stitch until the cuff measures 16 in / 40.5 cm, ending with a WS row. (9 sts)

Bind off all sts loosely. Make a second cuff identical to the first.

Felted Daisy Appliqués (make 3)

Round 1: Using CC and the 4.0 mm crochet hook, make a magic ring. Work 8 sc into the ring, join with sl st to the first sc. (8 sc) Fasten off, leaving a 6-in tail.

Petals: Using MC and a tapestry needle, embroider 8 straight stitches radiating from the center to form petals, each about 1 in / 2.5 cm long. Weave in ends.

Felting: Felt each daisy lightly by hand (rubbing with hot water and soap) or in a washing machine on a hot cycle inside a mesh bag, to shrink and blur the stitches slightly. Let dry completely.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Block all pieces. Soak each knitted piece in cool water for 15 minutes, gently squeeze out the water (do not wring), and lay flat on a towel. Pin to the measurements above and let dry completely. This sets the herringbone texture and straightens the bias.

2. Sew the shoulder seams. Place the Back panel flat, right side up. Place the two Front panels on either side, right sides together with the Back, aligning the top edges. Using your tapestry needle and a length of MC, sew the top 9 in / 23 cm of each Front panel to the corresponding edge of the Back panel. Use a simple whipstitch (small stitches over the edge) or a mattress stitch (a ladder-like stitch that hides the seam).

3. Sew the side seams. With right sides together, sew from the hem up to the underarm on each side, leaving the top 9 in / 23 cm open for the armholes. Try the robe on at this point to check the armhole size.

4. Set in the sleeves. Fold each Sleeve in half lengthwise and mark the center with a stitch marker. Align that center mark with the shoulder seam and pin the Sleeve into the armhole, easing the fabric to fit. Sew in place. Repeat for the second Sleeve.

5. Attach the bands and cuffs. Pin a Cobalt Front Band along the entire front opening edge, from hem to neck, letting the band extend slightly past the neck edge. Sew it down with matching CC yarn. Repeat on the other front. Sew a Cobalt Sleeve Cuff to the lower edge of each Sleeve.

6. Add the daisies. Arrange the three daisy appliqués vertically down the right Front panel, starting about 6 in / 15 cm below the shoulder and spacing them 6 in / 15 cm apart. Pin in place and sew securely with matching thread, catching the center of each daisy.

7. Weave in all ends. Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it back and forth through the wrong side of the fabric for about 2 inches, then trim. Lightly steam the seams and bands with an iron held just above the fabric (never press directly onto cotton).

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors. Swap Orange and Cobalt for any two colors you love. A cream body with rust bands gives a softer, vintage look; a charcoal body with mustard bands feels modern.
• Adjust the size. To make the robe wider or narrower, add or remove stitches in multiples of 2 (the herringbone repeat) to the Back and Front panels, and add or remove rows to change the length. Keep the armhole opening at 9 in / 23 cm.
• Substitute yarn. Any worsted-weight yarn works, but check your gauge first. A cotton-linen blend gives a crisper, summer-weight robe; a wool blend makes it warmer for winter.
• Add the optional belt. Using CC, cast on 9 sts and work in garter stitch for 60 in / 152 cm. Bind off, fold in half lengthwise, sew the edges, and turn. Tie at the waist for a cinched look. (This uses extra yarn not included in the amounts above.)