Free Pattern: Boho Fringe Hem Knit Hoodie for Kids

Introduction

Welcome to your very first knitted hoodie! This Boho Fringe Hem Knit Hoodie is the perfect project for someone who has never picked up knitting needles before, because every single piece of it is made from one simple stitch: the knit stitch. There is no purling, no complicated shaping, and no counting of tiny little stitches in fancy patterns. The finished hoodie is a soft, boxy, ridged garter-stitch garment in a dreamy lilac bulky wool, with a plain square hood and a chunky three-shade fringe swinging around the hem. It looks handmade in the best possible way, feels cozy and matte, and has that relaxed bohemian charm that makes people ask, "You made that?"

You will knit the body as two identical flat rectangles, sew them together, add two simple sleeves, a square hood, and a fringe. If you can knit, you can make this. Let's begin.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Bulky (weight 5) wool yarn, approximately 100g / 120 yds per skein.
  • Main color Lilac (A): 3 (3, 4) skeins
  • Fringe shade Pale Lilac (B): 1 skein (only a small amount is used)
  • Fringe shade Deep Lilac (C): 1 skein (only a small amount is used)
• Knitting needles: US 10 (6.0mm) straight knitting needles.
• Spare needle: A second US 10 (6.0mm) needle (or a tapestry needle) for the three-needle bind-off.
• Stitch markers: At least 4, to mark the beginning of rows and seam points.
• Stitch holders: 2 (or spare yarn) to hold the body panels while you work.
• Tapestry needle: A large blunt needle for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Scissors: Sharp scissors for cutting yarn and fringe.
• Crochet hook (optional): A US size J-10 (6.0mm) hook makes attaching the fringe easier.

Finished sizes: 2 (4, 6) years.

• Chest circumference: 24 (26, 28) in / 61 (66, 71) cm
• Body length (shoulder to hem, excluding fringe): 14 (15, 16) in / 35.5 (38, 40.5) cm
• Sleeve length from underarm: 9 (10, 11) in / 23 (25.5, 28) cm

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• st / sts – stitch / stitches. One loop on your needle is one stitch.
• K – knit. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch on the left needle, wrap the yarn around, and pull the loop through. That is one knit stitch.
• Garter stitch – knitting every row (knit all stitches on both right and wrong side rows). This creates a bumpy, ridged fabric that lies flat and never curls.
• Cast on – creating your first row of loops on the needle. We use the simple "long-tail" or "backward loop" cast-on.
• Bind off – finishing an edge so the stitches cannot unravel. Knit two stitches, then lift the first stitch over the second and off the needle; repeat across.
• M1L – make one left increase. Pick up the bar between the two stitches with your left needle from front to back, then knit into the back of it. Adds one stitch.
• M1R – make one right increase. Pick up the bar between the two stitches from back to front, then knit into the front of it. Adds one stitch.
• RS / WS – right side (the outside of the garment) / wrong side (the inside).
• Three-needle bind-off – joining two sets of live stitches while binding them off at the same time, creating a neat seam.
• Seam – the line where two edges are sewn together with a tapestry needle.
• Block – gently wetting and shaping the finished piece so it lies flat and even.

Gauge

14 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches (10cm) in garter stitch, measured unstretched.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into one inch of your knitting. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, the hoodie will come out too large; if smaller, too small. Always check before you start.

How to make a gauge swatch: Cast on 20 stitches. Knit every row (garter stitch) until the piece measures about 5 inches (13cm). Bind off. Lay it flat without stretching. Place a ruler across the middle and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches. Then count how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 14 stitches, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down a needle size. Knit a new swatch and check again.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers to track your rows. Place a marker every 10 rows on the edge of your panel so you never lose count of how long it is. Move them up as you go.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension should feel relaxed. If your stitches are tight and hard to slide on the needle, you are pulling too hard; loosen your grip.
• Count your stitches after every increase row. The stitch counts in parentheses tell you exactly how many you should have. If the number is off, fix it before moving on.
• Keep the first stitch of every row snug. The very first stitch can look loose; give the yarn a gentle tug after knitting it for a tidy edge.
• Work on a flat, well-lit surface. Good light makes it much easier to see your stitches and catch mistakes early.
• Do not be afraid to undo. If something looks wrong, pull the stitches off the needle and unravel back to the mistake. This is normal and part of learning.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Body: Back and Front Panels (make 2 identical panels)

Note: The body is worked flat as one straight tube (front and back panels are identical), then seamed at the sides. Each panel is a plain garter-stitch rectangle.

With A, cast on 42 (46, 49) sts.

Row 1: Knit all sts. (42 [46, 49] sts)

Rows 2–91 (2–97, 2–104): Repeat Row 1 (knit every row) until the piece measures 14 (15, 16) in / 35.5 (38, 40.5) cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a wrong-side row. (42 [46, 49] sts)

Do not bind off. Place the stitches on a stitch holder. Make a second identical panel.

Shoulder Seams (three-needle bind-off)

Place the front and back panels right sides together. Using a third needle, bind off the first 12 (13, 14) sts of each panel together for the right shoulder. Bind off the next 18 (20, 21) sts of each panel together for the back neck (or leave these open for the hood). Bind off the remaining 12 (13, 14) sts together for the left shoulder. You now have a tube open at the sides, with armhole openings at the top edges.

Sleeves (make 2)

With A, cast on 24 (26, 28) sts.

Rows 1–4: Knit all sts (garter stitch). (24 [26, 28] sts)

Increase row (right side): K1, M1L, knit to the last st, M1R, k1. (26 [28, 30] sts)

Repeat the increase row every 8th row 5 (6, 7) times total. (34 [38, 42] sts)

Work even in garter stitch (knit every row) until the sleeve measures 9 (10, 11) in / 23 (25.5, 28) cm from the cast-on edge. (34 [38, 42] sts)

Bind off loosely.

Side and Sleeve Seams

Fold the body in half with right sides together. Sew the side seams from the hem to the underarm, approximately 7 (7.5, 8) in / 18 (19, 20) cm. Sew the sleeve seams. Set in the sleeves: pin the sleeve cap to the armhole opening, matching the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam, and sew in place. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Hood

With A, cast on 40 (44, 48) sts.

Rows 1–65 (1–72, 1–78): Knit all sts (garter stitch) until the piece measures 10 (11, 12) in / 25.5 (28, 30.5) cm from the cast-on edge. (40 [44, 48] sts)

Bind off loosely.

Fold the hood in half with right sides together, matching the cast-on and bound-off edges. Sew the top seam (the bound-off edge to itself) to form the hood point. Turn right side out.

Pin the bottom edge of the hood around the neckline, matching the center of the hood to the center back neck. Sew in place.

Optional hood band: Pick up and knit stitches evenly around the hood opening, knit 2 rows in garter stitch, then bind off loosely.

Fringe Hem

Cut fringe strands approximately 6 in / 15 cm long. Using a crochet hook or tapestry needle, attach fringe along the bottom hem edge in this repeating color sequence: 2 strands Pale Lilac (B), 1 strand Deep Lilac (C), 1 strand Lilac (A). Space fringe approximately 1 in / 2.5 cm apart across the entire hem. Fold each strand in half, pull the loop through the fabric, then pull the ends through the loop and tighten. Trim ends evenly.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming: Thread your tapestry needle with a length of yarn about three times the length of the seam. With right sides together, bring the needle through the edge stitches of both pieces, working in a simple over-and-over motion, keeping the seam straight and even. Do not pull too tight or the seam will pucker.

Weaving in ends: Thread each loose yarn end onto the tapestry needle and weave it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about 2 inches, then trim close to the fabric.

Blocking: Lightly mist the hoodie with cool water (or gently press with a damp cloth) and lay it flat to the finished measurements, avoiding the fringe. Let it dry completely. The fringe will relax and drape with wear.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Color changes: Make the hood or sleeves in Pale Lilac (B) or Deep Lilac (C) for a two-tone look, or add a contrasting stripe every 10 rows for a boho feel.
• Size adjustments: To make a larger size, add 4 stitches to each body panel and 2 stitches to each sleeve for every size up, and add 6 rows to the body length.
• Yarn substitutions: Any bulky (weight 5) yarn works well. Always knit a gauge swatch with your substitute yarn to make sure you still get 14 sts and 26 rows per 4 inches.
• Fringe variation: Try a single color fringe, or add beads to the fringe ends for extra bohemian sparkle.