Pet Hat Crochet Patterns

Folk Pixie Cat Hood Free Pattern: Basketweave Crochet in Lavender & Mint

FindAmigurumi • October 27, 2026
Folk Pixie Cat Hood Free Pattern: Basketweave Crochet in Lavender & Mint

Folk Pixie Cat Hood: A Free Beginner Crochet Pattern in Lavender & Mint

Introduction

If you have ever wanted to dress your cat in something handmade but were worried about complicated shaping, this Folk Pixie Cat Hood is the perfect first project for you. It is a small, quick, top-down hood worked in plush chenille yarn, so it feels like a soft cloud in your hands and looks like a cozy little folk-art costume on your cat. The basketweave stitch creates a woven checkerboard of raised and sunken squares, and two mint stripes break up the lavender body for a sweet, storybook look. Finished, it is a rounded triangular hood with a neck opening of about 11 inches (28 cm) and a soft point that rests gently at the back of the head, finished with a tiny mint tassel. It slips easily over the neck opening, weighs almost nothing, and is designed to be worn for photos, chilly evenings, and general feline majesty.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn: Chenille plush yarn, super bulky (weight 6), approximately 60 yards total: 40 yards lavender (Color A) and 20 yards mint (Color B).
  • Main hook: Size L/11 (8.0 mm) crochet hook.
  • Tassel hook: Size G/6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook.
  • Stitch markers: At least 4, to mark the beginning of each round and the corners of your basketweave blocks.
  • Tapestry needle: A large-eye blunt needle for weaving in ends and sewing on the tassel.
  • Scissors: Sharp craft scissors for trimming yarn and tassel ends.
  • Finished size: Neck opening approximately 11 in / 28 cm circumference (fits a cat neck of 8–10 in / 20–25 cm with ease); hood depth from neck edge to point approximately 9 in / 23 cm.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed here in plain English. Read this section once before you begin, and come back to it any time a term feels unfamiliar.

  • ch – chain: wrap the yarn over your hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. This makes a small linked loop.
  • sl st – slip stitch: insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. It joins stitches without adding height.
  • sc – single crochet: insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), wrap yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
  • dc – double crochet: wrap yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), wrap yarn over and pull through two loops, wrap yarn over and pull through the last two loops.
  • FPdc – front post double crochet: work a double crochet around the post (the vertical body) of the stitch from the front, inserting your hook from front to back to front around the post instead of into the top of the stitch. This pushes the stitch forward, creating a raised block.
  • BPdc – back post double crochet: work a double crochet around the post of the stitch from the back, inserting your hook from back to front to back around the post. This pushes the stitch backward, creating a sunken block.
  • dc2tog around posts – double crochet 2 together around posts: a decrease. Start a double crochet around the first post but stop before the final pull-through (two loops on hook), start a double crochet around the next post and pull through all remaining loops to join them into one stitch.
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together: a decrease. Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn over and pull through all three loops.
  • st(s) – stitch(es): one completed loop or unit of crochet work.
  • join – join with a slip stitch: connect the last stitch of the round to the first stitch (or to the top of the starting chain) with a slip stitch so the round closes into a ring.
  • turn – flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just made.
  • fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.

Gauge

Gauge: 6 sts x 5 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in basketweave pattern (front post double crochet / back post double crochet groups) with the 8.0 mm hook.

Gauge matters because it tells you whether your hood will come out the size written here. If your stitches are bigger than the gauge, the hood will be too large and may slip off your cat; if they are smaller, it may be too snug. To make a gauge swatch, chain 20, then work 5 rows of basketweave blocks (4 FPdc, 4 BPdc across), and measure the middle 4 inches of a row. Count the stitches across 4 inches and the rows up 4 inches. If you have more than 6 stitches in 4 inches, try a larger hook; if you have fewer, try a smaller hook. Because chenille is fuzzy and forgiving, a small difference is fine, but aim to get close.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

  • Mark your round beginnings. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Joined rounds can look like a spiral, and the marker keeps you from losing your place.
  • Do not pull the yarn too tight. Chenille yarn is plush and can snap or shed if you yank it. Keep an easy, even tension so the post stitches stay puffy.
  • Work FPdc over FPdc and BPdc over BPdc within a block. The woven look comes from keeping each block consistent, then reversing the block positions every 4 rows.
  • Count your blocks, not just your stitches. Each block is 4 stitches. If a round no longer divides evenly, work single post stitches at the edge of a block rather than forcing a full block.
  • Try it on your cat as you go. Slip the neck opening over your cat's head after the neck edging to check the fit before you finish the point.
  • Keep the point soft. When you close the final 3 stitches, pull gently so the tip stays rounded and folk-art soft rather than sharp.

Step-by-Step Instructions

All instructions are in US terms. The hood is worked top-down: you begin with a small flat neck band, join it into a ring, then work joined rounds that taper to a point.

Neck Opening (worked flat, then joined)

With Color A and the 8.0 mm hook, ch 18.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (17 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (17 sc) Turn. This narrow band forms the neck ribbing.

Join: Ch 1, sl st the first and last sts of Row 2 together to form a ring, being careful not to twist. Do not fasten off. (17 sts around)

Set-Up Rounds (increase to a multiple of 8)

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, dc in each of next 15 sts, 2 dc in last st, join with sl st to top of ch-2. (19 dc) If your count differs, adjust evenly to 24 dc total on the next round.

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in each st around, increasing 5 sts evenly (work 2 dc in every 4th st), join. (24 dc)

Basketweave Body

Worked in joined rounds. The hood is shaped by decreasing at the back of the head so it tapers to a point at the crown-front. Each block is 4 stitches; keep blocks of 4 where possible and work single post stitches at the edges of a block when the count no longer divides evenly.

Round 3 (Color A, Block Band 1): Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 4 sts, BPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join with sl st to top of ch-2. (24 sts — 3 blocks of 8)

Round 4: Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 4 sts, BPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Round 5: Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 4 sts, FPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts — block positions reversed)

Round 6: Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 4 sts, FPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Change to Color B.

Round 7 (Mint stripe, Block Band 2): Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 4 sts, BPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Round 8: Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 4 sts, BPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Round 9: Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 4 sts, FPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Round 10: Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 4 sts, FPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Change to Color A.

Round 11 (Lavender, Block Band 3): Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 4 sts, BPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Round 12: Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 4 sts, BPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Round 13 (begin taper): Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 4 sts, FPdc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 sts)

Round 14 (decrease): Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 4 sts, FPdc in each of next 4 sts, then work 2 post sts together (dc2tog around posts) once; repeat from * around, join. (21 sts)

Change to Color B.

Round 15 (Mint stripe): Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 3 sts, BPdc in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around, join. (21 sts)

Round 16: Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 3 sts, BPdc in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around, join. (21 sts)

Round 17 (decrease): Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 3 sts, FPdc in each of next 3 sts, then work 2 post sts together once; repeat from * around, join. (18 sts)

Round 18: Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 3 sts, FPdc in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around, join. (18 sts)

Change to Color A.

Round 19 (Lavender): Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 2 sts, BPdc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join. (18 sts)

Round 20 (decrease): Ch 2, *FPdc in each of next 2 sts, BPdc in each of next 2 sts, then work 2 post sts together once; repeat from * around, join. (15 sts)

Round 21: Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 2 sts, FPdc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join. (15 sts)

Round 22 (decrease): Ch 2, *BPdc in each of next 2 sts, FPdc in each of next 2 sts, then work 2 post sts together once; repeat from * around, join. (12 sts)

Change to Color B.

Round 23 (Mint): Ch 2, *FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st; repeat from * around, join. (12 sts)

Round 24 (decrease): Ch 2, *FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st, then work 2 post sts together once; repeat from * around, join. (9 sts)

Round 25 (decrease): Ch 2, *FPdc in next st, then work 2 post sts together once; repeat from * around, join. (6 sts)

Round 26 (point): Ch 2, work 2 post sts together around the round, join. (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 6 in / 15 cm tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 3 sts and pull tight to close the point.

Neck Edging

With Color B and the 8.0 mm hook, join yarn at the neck opening edge. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the neck opening (approximately 17 sc), join with sl st, fasten off, and weave in ends. This gives a tidy mint trim at the cat's neck.

Crocheted Tassel

With Color B and the 4.0 mm hook, ch 6, join with sl st to form a small ring. Work 8 sc into the ring, join with sl st. Ch 3, then work 6 dc into the ring, join with sl st. Fasten off, leaving a 4 in / 10 cm tail. Thread the tail through the tip of the hood and secure with 2–3 small stitches. Trim the tassel ends to about 1 in / 2.5 cm.

Assembly and Finishing

This hood is worked in one piece, so there are no seams to sew. Your finishing work is all about tidying and shaping.

  • Weave in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and run it back and forth through the inside of several stitches, then trim close to the work. Do this for every color change and for the neck edging.
  • Attach the tassel: Use the tassel tail and the tapestry needle to stitch the tassel firmly to the point of the hood, making 2–3 small stitches so it hangs straight.
  • Blocking: Gently steam-block the hood over a small bowl to set the basketweave texture and the pointed shape. Hold the steamer a few inches away and let the steam relax the fibers; do not press flat with an iron, as this will crush the plush texture.
  • Final check: Slip the neck opening over your cat's head to confirm the fit, then let the hood dry completely in its bowl shape before wearing.

Pro Tips and Variations

  • Change the colors: Swap lavender and mint for any two super bulky chenille colors. A single solid color makes a simpler, more classic hood, while a third color for the tassel adds a playful accent.
  • Adjust the size: For a smaller cat, begin with a shorter neck chain (for example, ch 16) and add fewer set-up increases; for a larger cat, add 2–4 chains to the neck band and one extra increase round before the basketweave begins.
  • Substitute yarn: Any super bulky (weight 6) plush or velvet yarn works well. If you use a smoother yarn, your gauge may change, so always swatch first and adjust your hook size to match 6 sts x 5 rows = 4 in.
  • Make it a photo prop: Add a tiny crocheted flower or a second mini tassel at the neck edge for extra folk-art charm, or work the final point in a contrasting color for a whimsical finish.

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