Clover Grid Hexagon Crochet Hoodie Free Pattern for Kids

A Cozy Little Hoodie Made of Tiny Clovers

If you have ever looked at a crocheted garment and thought, "I could never make that," this is the project that will change your mind. The Clover Grid Hexagon Crochet Hoodie is built from small, friendly hexagon motifs, each with a tiny three-lobed clover lace center, joined into a neat honeycomb grid. Because you make the same small shape again and again, you get lots of practice with the basic stitches before you ever have to think about shaping a whole sweater. The finished hoodie is soft and gently drapey in bamboo cotton, with a boxy, easy fit, a rounded hood, and smooth lilac ribbed borders at the hem, cuffs, and front opening. It looks like something from a boutique, but it is made of simple pieces you can absolutely master.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Bamboo cotton DK weight (approximately 50% bamboo / 50% cotton; 125 m / 137 yds per 50 g ball), in lilac (one single colorway). You will need approximately 6 (7, 8) balls for sizes 2–4 (6–8, 10–12) years.
• Main hook: 4.0 mm (US G/6) crochet hook — for the hexagon motifs.
• Border hook: 3.5 mm (US E/4) crochet hook — for all the ribbed borders.
• Stitch markers: at least 10, to mark corners, the first stitch of each round, and joining points.
• Tapestry needle: a blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for weaving in ends and seaming.
• Scissors: small, sharp craft scissors.
• Buttons: 4 (5, 5) small 12 mm buttons.
• Blocking supplies: rust-proof pins and a blocking mat or towel.
• Finished sizes: Chest 62 (70, 78) cm / 24.5 (27.5, 30.5) in. Body length shoulder to hem 36 (40, 44) cm / 14 (15.75, 17.25) in. Sleeve length from underarm 24 (28, 32) cm / 9.5 (11, 12.5) in. Each hexagon measures 9 cm (3.5 in) flat-to-flat after blocking.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain: yarn over the hook, pull the loop through the loop on your hook. This makes a small link in your foundation.
• sl st – slip stitch: insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull the loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. It joins things without adding height.
• sc – single crochet: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• hdc – half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
• dc – double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through last 2 loops.
• tr – treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a loop, then pull through 2 loops three times.
• dc3cl – double crochet 3 together cluster: in the same space, work 3 double crochets but leave the last loop of each on the hook (4 loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through all 4 loops at once. This makes one puffy "leaf."
• ch-3 picot / clover notch – chain 3, then slip stitch into the 2nd chain from the hook. This makes a tiny bump.
• ch-2 sp – chain-2 space: the little gap made by two chains in the row below. You work your stitches into that gap.
• sc-blo – single crochet in back loop only: instead of going under both top loops of the stitch, insert your hook under only the loop farthest from you. This creates a stretchy ribbed texture.
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (a decrease): insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Two stitches become one.
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull closed so there is no hole in the center.
• right sides together – placing two pieces so their "good" faces touch, hiding the seam inside.
• fasten off – cut the yarn leaving a tail, then pull the tail through the last loop to lock it.

Gauge

One hexagon motif = 9 cm (3.5 in) across flat-to-flat after blocking, worked with the 4.0 mm hook. Border ribbing: 22 sts x 12 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in sc-blo with the 3.5 mm hook.

Gauge matters because it is how you control size. If your hexagons come out bigger than 9 cm, your hoodie will be too big; if smaller, too small. Before you begin, make one complete hexagon and block it. Lay a ruler across it from flat side to flat side. If it is larger than 9 cm, try a smaller hook; if smaller, try a larger hook. Also work a small 10 cm square of sc-blo with the 3.5 mm hook to check your border gauge. A swatch is not wasted time — it is a tiny practice piece that saves you from redoing a whole garment.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Make all your hexagons first. Working in batches keeps your tension consistent and lets you block them all at once so they match in size.
• Use stitch markers. Place one in the first stitch of every round so you never lose your place, and one in each corner chain space of the hexagon.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Bamboo cotton has little stretch; tight stitches make stiff, small motifs. Keep your loops relaxed and even.
• Count your corners every round. Every hexagon must have exactly 6 corners. If you have 5 or 7, something went wrong — it is much easier to fix one motif than a whole panel.
• Block before joining. Blocking makes each hexagon exactly 9 cm so the grid lines up neatly. Skip it and your seams will pucker.
• Keep your tails long. Leave a 20 cm tail on each motif; you will use these for weaving in and for seaming.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Hexagon Motif with Clover Lace Center (make 28 / 31 / 34)

Round 1 (clover center): With the 4.0 mm hook and lilac yarn, make a magic ring. Ch 1. Into the ring work [dc3cl, ch 2] 3 times, then sl st to the top of the first cluster. (3 clover leaves, 3 ch-2 sps) Pull the ring closed.

Round 2 (clover detail): Ch 1, sc in the same stitch. *Ch 3, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook (small clover notch), ch 1, sc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, sc in the top of the next dc3cl; repeat from * around, ending with a sl st in the first sc. Fasten off invisibly. This creates the tiny three-lobed clover lace at the center of each hexagon.

Round 3 (hexagon base): Join lilac with a sl st in any ch-3 loop of Round 2. Ch 3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the same loop, ch 2, 3 dc in the same loop (first corner made). *Ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-3 loop, ch 2, 3 dc in the same loop (corner); repeat from * 4 more times, ch 1, sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (6 corners, 6 sides)

Round 4: Sl st to the first ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the corner sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in the next corner sp; repeat from * around, ch 1, sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (6 corners, 12 ch-1 sps)

Round 5: Sl st to the corner. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the corner sp. *[Ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp] to the next corner, ch 1, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] in the corner sp; repeat from * around, ch 1, sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm tail. (6 corners, 18 ch-1 sps) Block each hexagon to 9 cm flat-to-flat and press lightly under a damp cloth. Weave in ends.

Joining (Grid Assembly)

Join motifs with a slip stitch seam in lilac: hold two hexagons right sides together and work through both loops of matching edge stitches. Join flat sides only; the corner ch-2 spaces align to form a regular honeycomb grid.

Back: Join 3 (3, 4) hexagons in a row, then work 3 (4, 4) rows total, matching side edges. This gives a rectangular back panel approximately 27 (27, 36) cm wide x 27 (36, 36) cm high.

Front: Work as for the back, but for sizes 6–8 and 10–12 leave the center hexagon of the top row unjoined at its lower edge to create a small neck opening; for size 2–4 join all hexagons and shape the neckline in the border (see Finishing).

Sleeves (make 2): Join 2 hexagons side by side for each sleeve, then join the short ends to form a tube. The sleeve tube is approximately 18 cm around x 18 cm long; the lower edge will be extended with border ribbing to reach the stated sleeve length.

Hood: Join 6 hexagons into a 3-wide x 2-high panel. Fold in half with right sides together and seam the top edge (3 hexagon sides) to form the hood crown; leave the bottom open for the face opening.

Borders (3.5 mm hook, lilac)

Body hem: With the right side facing, join yarn at the side seam of the lower body edge. Round 1: Work sc evenly around the entire lower edge, approximately 1 sc per stitch and 2 sc in each corner space, adjusting to a multiple of 2. Rounds 2–6: Ch 1, sc-blo in each sc around, sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (Hem band measures approx. 4 cm deep.)

Cuffs: Join yarn at the sleeve lower edge. Work as for the hem band, 5 rounds of sc-blo, decreasing 4 sts evenly on Round 1 (sc2tog) to draw the cuff in gently. (Cuff measures approx. 3.5 cm deep.)

Front opening and hood edge: Join yarn at the bottom right front corner. Work 1 round of sc evenly up the front edge, around the hood face opening, and down the left front edge, working 2 sc in each corner. Work 3 more rounds of sc-blo. On the right front band, on Round 2, work 4 (5, 5) buttonholes evenly spaced: ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc in the next sc. Fasten off. Sew 4 (5, 5) small 12 mm buttons opposite the buttonholes.

Neckline: Work 1 round of sc around the neck opening, then 2 rounds of sc-blo; fasten off.

Assembly and Finishing

Seam the sleeves into the armholes with a slip stitch seam, matching the underarm points. Hold the sleeve tube right sides together with the body armhole opening, pin the underarm points together first, then pin the rest evenly. Work slip stitches through both layers all the way around, keeping the seam relaxed so the armhole stays stretchy.

Join the hood to the neckline with a slip stitch seam, centering the hood at the back neck. Pin the center of the hood to the center back first, then pin outward to each front edge so the hood sits evenly.

Weave in all ends with the tapestry needle. Turn the work to the wrong side and run each tail under several stitches in one direction, then back the other way, so it cannot work loose. Trim close to the fabric.

Block the finished hoodie lightly to measurements: mist it with water, pat it into shape flat, and let it dry completely away from direct heat. This settles the seams and evens out the motifs.

Sew the buttons opposite the buttonholes. Optional: add a tiny lilac tassel at the hood point.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Color play: Keep the body in lilac and work the hood or cuffs in a soft cream for a two-tone look, or make each hexagon's clover center in a deeper purple for contrast.
• Size adjustments: Each extra row of 3 hexagons adds about 9 cm to the body length. To widen, add a column of hexagons to both front and back panels. Always re-check your gauge first.
• Yarn substitution: Any DK weight yarn works — cotton, cotton-blend, or a soft acrylic for easy washing. Match the gauge rather than the exact fiber, and always swatch.
• No buttons: Skip the buttonholes and add a simple crocheted tie or a chunky zipper for a sportier hoodie.