Free Pattern: Meadow Bloom Mandala Coasters

Introduction

Welcome to your very first crochet project! These Meadow Bloom Mandala Coasters are the perfect starting point for anyone who has never held a crochet hook before. Worked in cheerful worsted-weight cotton and a simple 5 mm hook, each coaster grows outward in easy concentric rings of bright yellow, leaf green, sky blue, and coral pink. The finished coaster is a flat, circular little mat about 4 to 6 inches across, with a smooth, even edge and a neat spiral of color changes that looks far more complicated than it really is. They work up quickly, use only a few yards of yarn each, and make lovely gifts for friends, family, or your own kitchen table.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) cotton yarn, approximately 30–40 yards total per coaster. You will need four colors: Color A (bright yellow), Color B (leaf green), Color C (sky blue), and Color D (coral pink). Cotton is recommended because it is absorbent and washable, which is ideal for coasters.
• Crochet hook: Size H/8 (5 mm). The “H/8” is the US size and “5 mm” is the metric size — they are the same hook.
• Stitch marker: At least one, to mark the first stitch of each round. A small safety pin or a scrap of contrasting yarn works too.
• Tapestry needle: A large-eyed, blunt-tipped needle for weaving in yarn ends.
• Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.

Finished size: Small coaster is approximately 4 inches in diameter. Large coaster is approximately 6 inches in diameter.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch — chain. Make a loop of yarn on the hook and pull it through the loop already on the hook. This creates one chain stitch.
• sc — single crochet. Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over (wrap the yarn around the hook), pull up a loop (you now have two loops on the hook), yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
• sl st — slip stitch. Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. This joins rounds together.
• st / sts — stitch / stitches. One completed crochet stitch, or several of them.
• magic ring — an adjustable loop of yarn that you crochet into, then pull closed to form a tight center. It is the starting point of a circle.
• yarn over — wrap the working yarn over your hook from back to front.
• 2 sc in next st — work two single crochet stitches into the same single stitch. This adds one stitch and makes the circle grow.
• join with a sl st to the first sc — after finishing the round, make a slip stitch into the very first single crochet of that round to close the circle.
• fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail through the last loop to secure it.
• weave in ends — use the tapestry needle to thread the loose yarn tails back through the stitches so they are hidden and secure.
• * … ; repeat from * around — the instructions between the asterisks are repeated all the way around the round.

Gauge

Gauge: 14 single crochet stitches x 16 rounds = 4 inches. Because this pattern is worked in the round, the most important measurement is the finished diameter: the small coaster should measure about 4 inches across and the large coaster about 6 inches across.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how tightly or loosely you crochet. If you crochet more tightly than the pattern, your coaster will come out smaller; if you crochet more loosely, it will come out larger. Matching gauge helps your finished item match the stated size.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your 5 mm hook and worsted-weight cotton, chain 20. Work single crochet in each chain across, then work 16 rows of single crochet. Lay the swatch flat and measure a 4-inch square in the middle. Count how many stitches fit across 4 inches and how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 14 stitches, try a larger hook; if you have fewer, try a smaller hook. For coasters, a small difference is not a problem — just aim for a flat, even circle.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each round so you always know where the round begins and ends. This prevents losing your place.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight. Keep an even, relaxed tension. Tight stitches make the coaster curl and are hard to work into.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The stitch count in parentheses tells you exactly how many you should have. If the number is off, fix it before moving on.
• Change colors neatly. When changing color, pull the loop of the new color through the previous color loop, snug the old color, and continue with the new color. This conceals the color change.
• Keep the magic ring closed. After Round 1, pull the short tail firmly to close the center hole before you continue.
• Work loosely on the first round. The stitches of Round 1 are the hardest; go slowly and do not worry if they look uneven at first.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Small Coaster (approx. 4 inches)

Round 1: With color A (yellow), make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 8 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Pull the tail to close the ring. (8 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (16 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (24 sc)

Round 4: Change to color B (green). Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (32 sc)

Round 5: Change to color C (blue). Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (40 sc)

Round 6: Change to color D (coral). Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. (40 sc)

Large Coaster (approx. 6 inches)

Work Rounds 1–6 exactly as for the small coaster, then continue:

Round 7: Change to color A (yellow). Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (48 sc)

Round 8: Change to color B (green). Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (56 sc)

Round 9: Change to color C (blue). Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. (56 sc)

Assembly and Finishing

Weaving in ends: Thread each loose yarn tail onto the tapestry needle. Turn the coaster to the wrong side and pass the needle through the backs of several stitches, then back through a few more in the opposite direction to lock it. Trim the yarn close to the work.

Blocking: Lightly mist the coaster with water and lay it flat on a towel. Use your fingers to smooth it into a perfect circle and let it dry completely. This flattens any slight curling and evens out the stitches.

Final check: Gently tug the edge to make sure all color changes are secure and no tails are poking out on the right side.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color palette: Use any four colors you love — pastels for spring, deep jewel tones for winter, or a single color for a minimalist look.
• Adjust the size: To make a larger coaster, continue the pattern of increasing one stitch between the “2 sc” increases each round (for example, Round 10 would be *2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts; repeat from * around).
• Substitute yarn: Worsted-weight acrylic or a cotton-acrylic blend works well if you do not have cotton; just check your gauge so the coaster stays flat.
• Add a hanging loop: After the final round, ch 8 and join with a sl st to the same stitch to create a small loop for hanging.