Cloudberry Bubble Baby Sweater Free Knitting Pattern – Textured Peplum Cardigan

Introducing the Cloudberry Bubble Baby Sweater

There are some knitting projects that feel like pure magic—and the Cloudberry Bubble Baby Sweater is exactly that. This dreamy, cloud-soft cardigan features a unique bubbly peplum hem and a delicate seed stitch yoke, creating an heirloom-quality piece that looks like it came straight from a boutique. The textured bubble stitch pattern resembles tiny clouds, giving the sweater a sweet, peplum silhouette that gently flares at the bottom. Knitted top-down in one piece, this pattern is surprisingly approachable for beginners while still offering a satisfying challenge for more experienced knitters. The result? A cozy, squishy, utterly adorable cardigan that will be treasured for years—and it grows beautifully with your little one.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather these supplies to ensure a smooth knitting experience:

• Yarn: DK weight superwash merino wool (e.g., Malabrigo Rios) in Cloudberry (soft coral-pink) – 300 (350, 400) yards for sizes 0-3 (3-6, 6-12) months
• Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm) circular needles in 16-inch and 32-inch lengths, plus double-pointed needles (DPNs) for sleeves
• Notions: Stitch markers (at least 8), waste yarn or stitch holders, tapestry needle for weaving in ends, 3 small buttons (slightly darker pink recommended)
• Gauge: 22 stitches x 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch (blocked). Always check your gauge before starting!

Sizes and Measurements

This pattern is written for three sizes:

• 0-3 months: Finished chest 16 inches
• 3-6 months: Finished chest 17.5 inches
• 6-12 months: Finished chest 19 inches

Instructions are given as 0-3 (3-6, 6-12) months throughout.

Abbreviations

Familiarize yourself with these standard knitting abbreviations:

• k = knit
• p = purl
• k2tog = knit two together (decrease)
• yo = yarn over (increase/hole)
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• m1 = make one (increase)
• BO = bind off
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Special Stitch: The Bubble Stitch

This pattern's signature texture comes from a simple 4-row repeat that creates a raised, pebbly surface—like tiny clouds across the fabric. The pattern is worked over a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2.

• Row 1 (RS): *P4, k2* repeat to end of row.
• Row 2 (WS): *P2, k4* repeat to end of row.
• Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
• Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

These 4 rows form the bubble pattern. The combination of purl and knit stitches creates that wonderful, dimensional texture.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: The Yoke (Worked Top-Down)

Cast On and Neckband:
Cast on 62 (68, 74) stitches. Work 6 rows of garter stitch (knit every row) for the neckband. This creates a neat, sturdy edge that won't stretch out.

Set Up Raglan Markers:
On the next row (right side), place markers as follows:
- K8 (9, 10) for left front, place marker (pm)
- K1 (raglan line), pm
- K10 (11, 12) for sleeve, pm
- K1 (raglan line), pm
- K20 (22, 24) for back, pm
- K1 (raglan line), pm
- K10 (11, 12) for sleeve, pm
- K1 (raglan line), pm
- K8 (9, 10) for right front

Raglan Increases:
Increase row (RS): *Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1, k1, slip marker (sm), k1, sm, m1* — repeat this sequence around all 4 raglan lines. This adds 8 stitches per increase row (2 increases at each raglan).
Work this increase row on every right-side row, 8 (9, 10) times total. After completing all increases, you should have 126 (140, 154) stitches on your needles.
Work 2 rows even in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) without any increases. This gives the yoke a smooth, polished look.

Part 2: Dividing for Body and Sleeves

On the next right-side row, you'll separate the sleeves from the body:

• Knit across front stitches (including raglan stitches) to the first marker, remove marker.
• Place the next 34 (38, 42) sleeve stitches onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.
• Cast on 4 (5, 6) stitches for the underarm.
• Knit across the back stitches to the next marker, remove marker.
• Place the next sleeve stitches onto waste yarn.
• Cast on 4 (5, 6) stitches for the second underarm.
• Knit to the end of the row.

You should now have 96 (108, 120) body stitches on your needle.

Part 3: Knitting the Body

Stockinette Section:
Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 3 (3.5, 4) inches from the underarm, ending with a wrong-side row. This smooth section creates a lovely contrast to the textured peplum below.

Bubble Stitch Peplum:
Begin the Bubble Stitch pattern across all stitches. Work Rows 1-4 of the Bubble Stitch until the piece measures 6 (7, 8) inches from the underarm, ending with a wrong-side row. The bubble texture will naturally flare the fabric, creating that sweet peplum silhouette.

Bottom Edge:
Work 4 rows of garter stitch (knit every row) for a clean, rolled-free bottom edge. Bind off loosely to maintain stretch.

Part 4: Knitting the Sleeves

Place the sleeve stitches from waste yarn onto double-pointed needles. Pick up and knit 4 (5, 6) stitches from the underarm cast-on edge. Total sleeve stitches: 38 (43, 48). Join in the round, placing a marker at the underarm to mark the beginning of the round.

Sleeve Shaping:
Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for 1 inch.
Decrease round: K2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog (2 stitches decreased).
Repeat this decrease round every 1 inch until 26 (30, 34) stitches remain. This gradual tapering creates a nicely fitted sleeve.

Cuff:
Work even (no decreases) until the sleeve measures 5 (6, 7) inches from the underarm. Work 4 rounds of garter stitch in the round (knit 1 round, purl 1 round) for a tidy, stretchy cuff. Bind off loosely.

Part 5: Finishing Touches

Weave in Ends:
Using a tapestry needle, carefully weave in all loose ends on the wrong side of the work. Take your time—this makes a huge difference in the finished look.

Blocking:
Gently block the cardigan to the specified measurements. Soak in lukewarm water with a drop of wool wash, gently squeeze out excess water (never wring), and lay flat on a towel. Shape to measurements and allow to dry completely. Blocking will even out the stitches and enhance the bubble texture beautifully.

Buttons:
Sew 3 small buttons evenly spaced on the left front placket. For buttonholes, you can use the yarn-over holes created naturally by the raglan increases, or create small buttonholes by binding off 2 stitches and casting them on again on the next row. Position buttons to align with these holes for a perfect fit.

Pro Tips for Success

• Check your gauge first! This ensures the correct size and fit. If your gauge is off, adjust needle size accordingly.
• Use locking stitch markers for the raglan lines—they're easier to move and won't slip out.
• Count your stitches after each increase row to catch mistakes early.
• Block before sewing buttons to ensure proper placement.
• Superwash wool is machine-washable, making this a practical gift for busy parents.

The Cloudberry Bubble Baby Sweater is more than just a garment—it's a labor of love that will be passed down and cherished. The combination of smooth stockinette and the whimsical bubble peplum creates a piece that's both modern and timeless. Whether you're knitting for your own little one or as a gift, this pattern delivers heirloom-quality results that look like they came from a high-end boutique. Happy knitting!