Slipper Knitting Patterns

Charcoal Hive Flat Mule Slippers Free Pattern: Brioche Honeycomb Knit Slip-Ons

FindAmigurumi • October 27, 2026
Charcoal Hive Flat Mule Slippers: Free Beginner Brioche Pattern

Charcoal Hive Flat Mule Slippers: A Cozy First Brioche Project

If you have ever wanted to try brioche knitting but felt a little intimidated, these Charcoal Hive Flat Mule Slippers are the perfect place to start. Each slipper is simply one flat rectangle of squishy two-color brioche honeycomb, folded and seamed into a low, backless slip-on shape. The finished slippers are about 10 inches long with a soft, raised honeycomb texture in deep charcoal, finished with a folded oatmeal cuff for a warm Nordic winter look. They feel thick, springy, and wonderfully warm underfoot, and because there is no shaping, no heel turn, and no working in the round, this is a genuinely gentle introduction to brioche. If you can knit and purl, you can make these.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn (main color, MC): Aran-weight wool blend, approx. 220 yd (200 m) charcoal for a pair.
  • Yarn (contrast color, CC): Aran-weight wool blend, approx. 60 yd (55 m) oatmeal for a pair.
  • Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) straight or circular needles (circulars are easier because the fabric is wide).
  • Spare needle: One extra US 7 (4.5 mm) needle for the three-needle bind-off.
  • Stitch markers: 4 or more, to mark the edges and the fold lines.
  • Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for seaming and weaving in ends.
  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
  • Finished size: Men's medium. Slipper length approx. 10 in (25.5 cm), width across the sole approx. 4 in (10 cm), opening circumference approx. 9 in (23 cm).

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

  • st / sts – stitch / stitches (one loop on your needle is one stitch).
  • RS – right side (the side of the fabric that faces out when finished).
  • WS – wrong side (the inside of the fabric).
  • K (knit) – insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from left to right, wrap yarn around, pull a loop through, and slide the old stitch off.
  • P (purl) – insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from right to left, wrap yarn around, pull a loop through, and slide the old stitch off.
  • sl1yo (slip 1 with yarn over) – with the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle, then bring the yarn over the right needle to the back. This creates a "yarn over" that pairs with the slipped stitch.
  • brk (brioche knit) – knit the stitch together with its paired yarn over as one stitch.
  • brp (brioche purl) – purl the stitch together with its paired yarn over as one stitch.
  • MC – main color (charcoal).
  • CC – contrast color (oatmeal).
  • rep – repeat (do the same thing again).
  • * to * – repeat the instructions between the asterisks as many times as stated.
  • bind off – the way to finish stitches so they do not unravel (knit two stitches, lift the first over the second, and continue).
  • pick up and knit – use your needle to pull new loops through the edge of the finished fabric to create a new row of stitches.
  • garter stitch – knitting every row, which makes a flat, ridged fabric that does not curl.
  • mattress stitch – a seaming method that joins two edges invisibly from the right side.

Gauge

16 sts and 24 rows = 4 in (10 cm) over brioche honeycomb pattern, lightly stretched.

Gauge matters because it tells you whether your slipper will come out the right size. If your stitches are too big, the slipper will be too long and loose; if too small, it will be too tight. To check, cast on about 25 stitches in your yarn and work the honeycomb rows until the swatch is about 5 inches tall. Lay it flat, gently stretch it, and count how many stitches fit across 4 inches and how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more stitches than 16, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down. Always make a swatch before starting.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

  • Use stitch markers at both edges. Place one marker after the first stitch and one before the last stitch of every row so you never lose your place.
  • Do not pull the yarn too tight. Brioche needs a little slack. Keep your tension relaxed so the honeycomb stays puffy and stretchy.
  • Count your stitches every few rows. You should always have 41 stitches. If you have more or fewer, you have accidentally added or dropped a yarn over.
  • Keep both yarns tidy. Let MC and CC hang at the same edge and untwist them every row so they do not tangle.
  • Read the whole row before you knit it. Brioche rows look similar but are not the same; a quick read prevents mistakes.
  • Try the slip-slide trick. On Row 2 you slide stitches to the other end of the needle instead of turning; this is normal and keeps the color sequence correct.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Set-Up

With MC, cast on 41 sts.

Row 1 (RS, MC): K1, *sl1yo, k1; rep from * to end. (41 sts)

Row 2 (WS, MC): K1, *brp, k1; rep from * to end. Do not turn work; slide sts to other end of needle. (41 sts)

Row 3 (RS, CC): K1, *brk, k1; rep from * to end. Turn. (41 sts)

Row 4 (WS, CC): K1, *brp, k1; rep from * to end. Turn. (41 sts)

Honeycomb Body

Work until the piece measures approx. 20 in (51 cm) from the cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Row A (RS, MC): K1, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1. Turn. (41 sts)

Row B (WS, MC): K1, *brp, sl1yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, brp, k1. Turn. (41 sts)

Row C (RS, CC): K1, *brk, sl1yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, brk, k1. Turn. (41 sts)

Row D (WS, CC): K1, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * to last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1. Turn. (41 sts)

Repeat Rows A–D until the body measures approx. 20 in (51 cm), ending after Row D. This is about 120 rows total at the stated gauge. Bind off all sts loosely in pattern using MC. (41 sts bound off)

Shaping the Mule (Fold and Seam)

Step 1: Lay the rectangle flat with RS facing up. Fold the lower long edge up 4 in (10 cm) to form the sole and footbed; this fold line runs across the width of the foot.

Step 2: Fold the short heel edges together and seam with mattress stitch from the sole fold up 3 in (7.5 cm) to close the heel cup.

Step 3: Fold the toe end over the top of the footbed and seam the short toe edges together for 2 in (5 cm), leaving the center opening free.

Step 4: Seam the remaining side edges from the toe seam to the heel seam, leaving the top opening (approx. 9 in / 23 cm circumference) open for the foot.

Oatmeal Cuff Band

With CC and RS facing, pick up and knit 1 st in each garter ridge around the entire opening (approx. 72 sts).

Rows 1–8: Knit every stitch (garter stitch). (72 sts)

Work for 8 rows, approx. 1.5 in (4 cm). Bind off loosely. (72 sts bound off)

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming: Use mattress stitch for all seams. Thread your tapestry needle with matching yarn, bring the needle under one horizontal bar on each edge, and pull gently to close the gap invisibly. Work from the right side so you can see the seam disappear. Seam the heel first, then the toe, then the side edges, checking the opening size as you go.

Folded cuff: Fold the garter band to the inside and whipstitch the bound-off edge to the pick-up ridge. Whipstitch means passing the needle over the edge and back through in small, even stitches to hold the fold in place.

Weaving in ends: Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it through the back of several stitches, then trim close to the fabric. Do not knot.

Blocking: Lightly steam-block the slippers to settle the honeycomb texture. Hold a steam iron just above the fabric (never press down) and let the steam relax the stitches. Be careful not to flatten the brioche. Let them dry completely, then make a second slipper to match.

Pro Tips and Variations

  • Change the colors: Swap charcoal and oatmeal for any two contrasting aran-weight colors. A deep burgundy with cream, or forest green with gray, looks lovely.
  • Adjust the size: For a smaller slipper, work the rectangle to about 18 in (46 cm) instead of 20 in. For a larger slipper, work to about 22 in (56 cm). Keep the fold measurements the same.
  • Substitute yarn: Any aran-weight wool or wool blend works. Avoid slippery acrylics, which can make the slippers slide on smooth floors.
  • Add a sole: For extra grip, cut a piece of non-slip fabric to the sole shape and stitch it to the bottom with a whipstitch.

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